Measure the First Bend
Welding the Flange
For a perfect fit, trim the excess off the top portion of the exhaust pipe, then weld on the flange to connect the exhaust to the engine. Then dry fit the flange and exhaust together on the engine so the mounting holes line up exactly. In fact, you can install the bolts for a perfect match, then mark a line along both sides.Making the First Bend
Once the measurement is made, place the pipe (stainless steel, 12 gauge, double-walled is recommended) into the bender with the mark facing you. The mark should be on the outside of the bender, so the bend is made beyond the mark, not right on it. Heat the edge pipe using a blowtorch, then make your bend by pulling on the metal pipe bender. Now, refit the pipe to the exhaust. Account for the added inch that you will cut off later, and make a mark for the second bend.
Second Bend
The second bend occurs below the foot pegs, near the shifter in most cases, but it varies depending on your bike's layout. Make a mark along the outside of the pipe, exactly perpendicular to the ground. This time, make it in the center of the bend, so there is an equal amount of bent pipe on either side. Place the pipe into the bender, with the mark facing you and perfectly centered in the bender. Then heat your pipe and make the bend. For most bikes, this is all that is required to make the exhaust.
The early development in moulding a all motorcycle exhaust is to bend the pipes into shape. This front requires a detailed measurement of the pipes: Grip a tape degree and degree the length from the exhaust gap on the engine to the aim of the engine heads below them. The first off conduit bend needs to be trumped-up at least an inch beyond this measurement so you include additional conduit length to bullwork with. So, provided the length from your exhaust to the column of the engine sense is 3", stop your drainpipe at 4" and construct the bend there.
